Optional (but so worth it)
|Angled Brush||Extension Pole|
|Roller Frame||Paint Pot|
|Roller Cover||Sanding Sponge|
|Paint Tray||Mini Roller Frame|
|Painter’s Tape||Mini Roller Cover|
Prep (don’t skip this even if you want to…)
Move furniture out of the room or to the centre and take down anything hanging on the walls (if you plan to hang things back in the same spot you can leave the holes and if not them you might want to fill them with putty and sand them smooth.)
Where you can, remove any light fittings, plug covers and doorknobs – trust is, it’s much quicker than taping them! Make sure to put them and their screws away safely for later. Of course the other option is to tape them up – making sure the whole fitting is covered.
It’s time to drop those sheets.
Cover all furniture you want to keep safe from splashes.
Lay a dropsheet on the floor too – even if it’s a robust floor protecting it is much faster that trying to clean it later! If you can’t cover the whole floor lay your drop sheets in the area you will be working and move them as you go. You can even tape the edges to your floor.
Use your sanding sponge to smooth any rough spots – look for bumps, small cracks and loose paint.
Vacuum or dust your trims to remove loose dirt and dust. Finally, mix a mild detergent with warm water and wipe down you surfaces with a damp cloth. Rinse well with clean water to remove any soap and leave until completely dry.
At this stage you may want to fill any large cracks or holes with putty. Always use a putty that can be sanded smooth once dry, follow the instruction on the putty and once it has been sanded flat make sure to wipe away any dust with a damp cloth.
Check for any large gaps around your trim and in the corners – a gap filler with a bit of flexibility work best for areas like this.
As you transition between painting your ceiling, walls and trim you will tape the area off you want to protect.
Most of the time when painting your ceiling you can skip taping up the walls (we will explain this more later). Otherwise when taping off an area start in a corner and align your tape carefully along the edges of your space. Every time you start a new piece, overlap the tape by a few centimetres. Once in place press it down firmly, edge to edge, to insure no paint seeps underneath.
Even though Tint paint is low VOC and super low odour we still think it’s best (and nice) to open up your windows and get some air moving throughout your space as you paint. This will help the paint to dry. Of course, if it’s super humid, windy or wet you can go ahead and leave them closed.
Tint Tip – It is not recommended to paint if the ambient temperature is less than 10° or more than 30°, or if it will drop below 10° during the drying time.
What to paint first? Always work from top to bottom. Starting with your ceilings, then walls then trim.
Why? When painting a surface little specks of paint may fall onto the surfaces below, so if you work your way down from ceiling to trim you will cover any specks as you go.
Tint Tip – Make sure to let fresh paint dry for at least 24 hours before you apply tape to it. It may feel dry to touch but it doesn’t mean it’s ready to be taped up!
When to use primer?
In most cases our wall and trim paint is self-priming, but every now and then two coats of Prep Paint is recommend for the best finish.
Use our Prep Paint if you are painting over the following: bare plasterboard, masonry, render, cement sheet, brick, MDF, and interior timber. Also use Prep paint on pre-painted surfaces that have marks, high gloss surfaces or a darker colour. When painting over a high gloss surface we recommend giving it a quick sand and clean to prep the surface before priming. If you have a repaired patched on your wall you can spot prime over these with a brush, feathering out the edges.
Mix it up
Before you get started give your paint a good stir with your handy stirring stick (yes, even if it’s white paint). Stir it for at least a minute and until a consistent colour is achieved.
Tint Tip – Always place your paint and tools on your drop sheet in case of any splashes or spills!
You might be ready to roll… but it’s best to start with cutting in. This is basically using a brush to outline the edges of your space. Making it easier to paint areas that a roller can’t reach. It is best to cut in along all corners, fittings, windows, doors and trims.
Fill your paint pot with about 3cm of paint and dip the tip of your brush into the paint, covering about 1/3 of the bristles. Tap off any excess paint – tapping off the paint instead of wiping it leaves the perfect amount of paint on the bristles. The tip of the brush should be loaded with paint but not dripping.
Place your loaded brush slightly away from a corner and follow along your masked edge applying a gentle pressure. As you go blend out any excess paint with back and forth strokes, creating a smooth edge. You should end up with a border that is about 6cm wide. Always start each new stroke in a dry area away from your previous wet edge and work back towards it so they overlap slightly.
When painting your ceiling, or near your ceiling, you may want to paint the cut in a little deeper, this gives you more wiggle room when rolling with an extension poll.
Tint Tip – If you plan to paint the walls after your ceiling you can skip masking the walls for this step and instead bleed the ceiling paint onto the wall a tiny bit - this will be covered up when you cut in your walls later on. This it not recommended though if your ceiling is going to be darker than your walls!
We recommend completing each coat one wall at a time. As it is best to start rolling a wall before the cut in completely dries – this is referred to as maintaining a ‘wet edge’. Basically, the aim is always to overlap paint while it is still wet - not letting the paint dry on one patch before you paint the patch next to it. Keeping a wet edge will give you a seamless professional finish, as it allows for the cut in and rolled paint to blend seamlessly.
Tint Tip – If there are two of you one can keep cutting in while the other rolls out the paint behind them #teamwork.
So you have cleaned and taped and cut in – now it’s time to roll!
Before using your brand-new roller cover, give it a quick wash and then dab off most of the water so it is just damp. This will remove any lint and stop it from absorbing too much paint.
Fill the well of your paint tray (and tray liner) halfway. No need to dunk the whole roller in, just lightly dip and roll out the paint until it’s fully covered. Like your brush, the roller cover should be evenly loaded with paint, but not dripping.
The way to roll…
When using a roller use a gentle, steady pressure - pressing too hard will create thick seams of paint and moving too quickly will create splashes. Work in sections across your wall or ceiling, rolling in long vertical strokes from top to bottom. Make a gentle zig-zag W shape as you roll, going back over a section in the opposite direction until it is evenly filled. When your roller starts to run out of paint finish of each section by laying off the paint – this refers to smoothing out a surface by lightly rolling back over a section with your unloaded roller. Do this in long parallel strokes, from top to bottom.
Tint Tip – Each time you reload your roller, start your next section in a dry area away from your previous wet edge and work back towards it so they overlap slightly. Always keep a wet edge as you work across the wall – no lunch breaks halfway through a roll!
We recommend using your extension poll when rolling both ceilings and walls. With an extension pole you can easily reload your roller, reach further and apply an even pressure across the whole space. Easy painting and less bending saves you time and saves your back.
Tint paint looks best with two coats, we recommend leaving at least 2 hours between each coat - don’t forget to cut in on your second coat too.
CEILINGS – A few notes on painting ceilings… Straight after cutting in your ceiling, grab your extension pole and start rolling from a corner. Place your roller just away from your edge and roll back towards your cut in. Continue to roll out your ceiling in sections following the method above. When painting ceilings take note of the direction you are moving in and for the second coat work across the ceiling in the opposite direction - this crisscrossing of coats will give you a more even finish. Leave at least 2 hours between coats and allow the final coat on your ceilings to dry for 24 hours before apply any tape to it or return any fittings.
WALLS – A few notes on painting walls… Cut in each wall at a time so you can start rolling a wall while the cut in is still wet. Work in long vertical sections, rolling from top to bottom. Overlap each section slightly as you move across the wall. If your walls are high or if you don’t have an extension poll then you may want to break up the wall into horizontal sections as well – just make sure to maintain a wet edge as you go.
Once you have finished the walls, let you paint to dry for at least 24 hours before removing your tape and moving onto the trim. If you remove it to soon the paint may peel, and if you place tape on an area of paint that is not completely dry it is likely to cause damage when you remove it.
Time to brush up
Ok, let’s tackle that trim!
Grab your Trim Paint, designed perfectly for use on those high traffic areas that are more likely to get bumped and knocked. If you haven’t already, remove any handles and fittings from your doors and windows. This will give you a smooth surface to paint.
Tint Tip – When painting your door, open it up and place a wedge underneath it to stop it moving or take it off its hinges all together and prop it up on a covered table for easy painting.
Now grab your paint brush and paint pot. Dip your brush in and tap off excess paint (don’t wipe). With a loaded brush never start near a previous edge, instead start away from the edge and work the paint back towards it with back and forth strokes.
Tint Tip – The key is to move quickly with a light hand to avoid brush marks that are created when you paint over areas that have started to dry.
DOORS – paint the edges first and wipe of any paint that moves onto the front or back with a damp cloth. Then cut in any details and around any fittings. On the front and back of your door, work in horizontal sections, slightly overlapping each new section into the old one, always keeping a wet edge. Start your brush in the centre of each new section and work the paint out to the sides using quick light strokes in alternating directions. Then as you finish each section, lay off the paint by lightly and quickly brushing over it in vertical strokes.
WINDOWS – make sure to open them before painting. Not only will this help you get at it from all angles, but it will also stop you from sealing your windows closed! If you have sash windows (the ones with weights that roll up and down) then you will have to move them into different positions to get to all areas. Makes sure you let the paint dry before readjusting them!
Tint Tip – check how easily your windows and doors currently close. If they are already tight you might want to sand them back a bit before painting. A coat or two of paint might not look like much, but it can make a noticeable difference.
As a general rule when painting Trim, start at the top and work your way down in case of drips.
When painting any trim make your sure your stoke follows the direction of what you are painting –for example when painting skirting boards use horizontal strokes, when painting the sides of a door frame use vertical strokes.
Let everything dry for as long as possible before closing doors, windows or reattaching fittings.
Tint Tip – paint things that need to be closed or have fittings reattached first to give them the most time to dry.